A Journey Through Nova Scotia: From Sea to Shore
Kinnon, a local guide, smiled beneath his baseball cap as he helped maneuver the rigid inflatable boat out of Ingonish Harbour and into the cool waters off Nova Scotia. “I love the office view I have,” he said, clearly enjoying the breathtaking surroundings. Compared to my previous office in London on a bright June day, this was a far more inspiring workspace. Above us, a majestic sea eagle soared, while a puffin bobbed beside the boat. In the distance, sleek gannets dove for fish, creating a lively scene on the water.
Lobster fishermen were busy pulling up their pots, an activity that can occur up to 275 times a day during their short season. One crew managed to catch seven lobsters from a single pot, returning 13 smaller ones or those with eggs. Behind them, the pine-covered cliffs of a peninsula stood tall, jutting between two sweeping bays. The day before, we had hiked through the woodland trail there, and now we were on the lookout for whales.
“Can you smell that: stinky minke?” Kinnon asked as a strong odor of rotting fish and cabbage wafted over the water. Grey backs soon appeared above the waves, drawing gasps of delight from the passengers. The whales disappeared into the depths before reappearing around our small boat. Kinnon shared stories about spotting killer whales, expressing a mix of admiration and concern, as they prey on the minke whales.
After seeing a few more minke whales, we returned to the harbour. My wife and I had chosen Nova Scotia for a road trip, partly on a whim, drawn by its proximity to the UK compared to most of North America, with a flight time of less than seven hours. The region also boasts a significant Gaelic-speaking community, making it a unique destination for those interested in Celtic heritage.
Exploring Halifax: A City of History and Culture
Our journey began in Halifax, the capital of Nova Scotia, known for its fast-growing yet relaxed vibe. The bustling boardwalk, stretching almost three miles along the waterfront, is lined with bars, restaurants, and ice-cream parlours. The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic showcases Titanic artefacts, highlighting how 150 victims of the disaster were laid to rest in local cemeteries.
However, it was the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21 that left a lasting impression. Over 1.5 million people arrived here in search of new lives, facing challenges and discrimination along the way. Handwritten notes from visitors, such as one woman honoring her Italian father’s journey, reminded me of the resilience of immigrants. A Ukrainian family who arrived two years ago expressed gratitude for Halifax’s welcoming environment, which reminded them of their homeland.
Coastal Adventures and Natural Wonders
Nova Scotia’s coastline stretches for 8,300 miles, and no matter where you are, you’re never more than 50 miles from the sea. As we drove north to Advocate Harbour, the roads were uncrowded, and Canadian drivers were among the politest in the world. We passed the Bay of Fundy, known for its tidal bore rafting, and the peculiar “Flower Pot Rocks” – sandstone pillars carved by powerful tides, topped with trees.
We stayed at Wild Caraway, a restaurant with rooms run by Andrew and Fiona. The food was inventive, featuring locally foraged ingredients like fiddleheads with balsam fir and lemon, followed by halibut and asparagus in chive sauce. A superb breakfast was delivered to our cabin, which we needed to walk off on quiet beaches. Later, a seacuterie platter with potted prawns and rollmop herring was enjoyed with beers by the fire pit as dusk fell.
Exploring Beyond the Coast
As we drove hundreds of miles through the forested wilderness, we encountered bears, moose, and raccoons. This underpopulated region, located on a similar latitude to southern France, is also home to some excellent wines. We took a detour to Arisaig, a lobster port named after the Scottish village near my wife’s hometown of Mallaig.
The Cabot Trail, a scenic highway around Cape Breton, was gentler than expected, offering stunning views. Chéticamp, with its folk-art vibe and French speakers, reminded us of the historical tensions between the French and English in Nova Scotia, originally inhabited by the Mi’kmaq people.
A Memorable Conclusion
Lunenburg, a historic port and World Heritage Site, surprised us with its charm rather than being a tourist trap. Finally, we returned to Halifax for a meal at Drift, a striking harbour-side restaurant, before staying at the Muir Hotel for a comfortable night’s rest before our return home across the Atlantic.
Getting There and Staying There
Air Canada flies to Halifax from Heathrow, while WestJet offers flights from Edinburgh. For accommodation, the Muir Hotel in Halifax has doubles starting at C$600/£329 per night, and Wild Caraway Restaurant & Rooms in Advocate Harbour offers doubles from C$188/£103 and cottages from C$313/£171.