A Changing Landscape of Beauty and Self-Image
For many years, I worked in the world of glossy magazines, serving as deputy editor at Vogue and Elle, and later as editor-in-chief of In Style, Good Housekeeping, and Just Seventeen. These roles gave me a deep understanding of the beauty industry and the women who engage with it. I, too, have a well-stocked cosmetics bag that gets regularly replenished.
The history of makeup for women dates back thousands of years, with evidence from ancient Egypt showing its use. Even during the Victorian era, men often wore makeup. Dieting also became popular among the upper classes around the same time, though body shapes have fluctuated in popularity over the centuries.
It’s completely understandable to want to look your best. Research highlights that self-care is beneficial for mental health, and most people would agree that some assistance in enhancing their appearance can be helpful. However, what we’re witnessing today is quite different.
Everywhere I look, young women are sporting exaggerated features—plumped lips, frozen brows, and artificially enhanced cheeks. Hair extensions are common, and eyebrows are meticulously shaped. For those over 30, the trend seems to focus on achieving ultra-slim figures, often through medications like semaglutides such as Ozempic, Wegovy, and Mounjaro. These drugs have made it possible for individuals to achieve bodies they once only dreamed of.
A recent article in The Hollywood Reporter highlighted the latest trends in cosmetic procedures among celebrities. It shows how far-reaching and normalized treatments like fillers and face lifts have become. This is a stark contrast to the world I knew when editing In Style two decades ago. Back then, we focused on finding stars who had style and were relatable. Readers could emulate the looks of Jennifer Aniston or Sarah Jessica Parker by using similar lip balms.
Today, consumers are looking for products and non-invasive beauty procedures that not only enhance their appearance but transform them entirely. This shift towards more interventionist approaches has led to a focus on erasing natural features and correcting perceived flaws.
I recently launched a platform called Welldoing to help people find the right therapists. Through conversations with our therapists, I’ve heard numerous stories of clients—both female and male—who feel they constantly compare themselves to others and experience despair. The pressures of social media, amplified by smartphones, have made this issue even more intense. This is a dangerous trend that needs attention.
Sociologist Rosalind Gill’s book Perfect: Feeling Judged on Social Media revealed how damaging modern beauty norms have become. Her research involved 220 individuals aged 18 to 28 across various backgrounds. Their responses were remarkably consistent. They follow celebrities like the Kardashians, Jenners, and Hadids, along with influencers and reality TV stars. These young women absorb the message that appearance is crucial for success in almost every area of life.
From my days in magazine editing, I remember readers focusing on their faces and bodies. But according to Gill, the intensity today is much greater. Young women scrutinize their appearances with an almost forensic level of detail. They question if their eyebrows look right, if their false eyelashes are properly applied, and whether they’ve edited their photos just right. Many consider Botox or lip fillers, and wonder if their hair is thick and shiny enough.
The BBC reported on shopaholics, highlighting that women under 40 are particularly vulnerable to insecurities about their looks. Zuzanna, an 18-year-old, spends her monthly wages quickly on beauty products, often opting for a “Barbie look” that resembles a plastic doll rather than a fresh-faced teenager.
Professor Gill noted that many young women get lip fillers either to have bigger lips or to fit the current trend. There’s no clear evidence that this makes them more appealing to men, though some believe online porn influences their perceptions.
Elective cosmetic surgery used to be a luxury for the wealthy, but today it’s becoming more accessible. While this may seem positive, there’s a growing concern about the financial burden on younger women. According to researchers at University College London, the UK injectables market will reach £11.7 billion by next year. New regulations now require a face-to-face consultation with a qualified professional before Botox can be administered, and under-18s are prohibited from receiving these treatments.
Regarding weight loss, I remain old-school, especially when it comes to drastic measures. Unless medically necessary, I believe that losing weight should come from healthier habits, not quick fixes. There are more important things to focus on than fitting into a smaller dress size.
While I don’t intend to criticize young women for wanting to look their best, I do worry about the shift from simple self-care to an anti-nature approach. We’ve become accustomed to altering images digitally, and now we believe that our bodies can be reshaped just as easily. This reflects a broader societal dream of human perfectibility, which risks making us less human.
It’s no surprise that young women and girls are three times more likely than men to experience mental health issues like depression, anxiety, self-harm, and PTSD. Perhaps we should start by looking beyond the mirror.
Louise Chunn is the founder of therapist matching platform Welldoing.