The Enduring Legacy of Clueless: A Look Back with Costume Designer Mona May
Thirty years after its release, the iconic 1995 film Clueless continues to influence fashion and popular culture. The movie’s vibrant and distinctive style, masterminded by costume designer Mona May, redefined teen fashion in the 90s and remains a source of inspiration for designers, celebrities, and everyday fashion enthusiasts alike. May’s work on Clueless wasn’t just about clothing; it was about creating characters, telling stories, and capturing a specific moment in time.
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May recalls that the script itself heavily emphasized fashion. Her prior connection with the film’s writer and director, Amy Heckerling, proved pivotal. They had previously collaborated on a pilot, forming a strong creative bond. Heckerling sought someone who could infuse a unique, non-American perspective into the film’s style. May, with her background in fashion from Paris and New York, was the perfect fit.
The shared vision between May and Heckerling was clear from the beginning. They wanted to portray affluent high school girls with access to the latest designer trends from London and Paris. This contrasted sharply with the prevalent grunge aesthetic of the era. Clueless offered a fresh, aspirational vision of teen style.
However, May understood that simply showcasing runway fashion wouldn’t resonate with the audience. The goal was to make the characters relatable and authentic. She expertly translated high fashion into a high school context, blending classic prep school elements with contemporary trends. Think “Catholic school girl, but make it high fashion.”
Inspiration also came from Jane Austen’s Emma, the novel upon which Clueless is loosely based. May drew upon the novel’s inherent femininity, incorporating delicate details like cap sleeves and empire waists into the costumes. She favored classic feminine pieces, such as twin sets, peacoats, and berets.
The Iconic Yellow Plaid Suit
Perhaps the most recognizable outfit from Clueless is Cher Horowitz’s yellow plaid suit. May explains that it was a playful, high-fashion interpretation of the classic Catholic school uniform. By taking the traditional plaid skirt and sweater vest combination and amplifying it with a Jean Paul Gaultier design, she created a truly unforgettable look.
The choice of yellow was also crucial. While other colors were considered, the yellow had a unique vibrancy that perfectly captured Cher’s personality. May describes it as a “ray of sunshine,” reflecting Cher’s role as the central figure in the school.
Grounding the Characters
Despite the characters’ access to designer clothing, May made a conscious effort to portray them as real teenage girls. Cher’s casual at-home outfits, like a white t-shirt under a pink vest or oversized pajamas, helped to ground her character and make her more relatable. May stressed the importance of not turning the characters into “fashion victims.”
Overcoming Initial Skepticism
Interestingly, not all the actors initially embraced May’s vision. Alicia Silverstone, who played Cher, was initially hesitant about the emphasis on fashion. May recalls that Silverstone, an activist who preferred comfortable clothing, sometimes found the fittings tedious.
However, as Silverstone spent more time in the fitting room, she began to understand how the clothes contributed to her character. The process of trying on different outfits and accessories helped her develop Cher’s confidence and mannerisms.
Stacey Dash, who played Dionne, had a different approach. With a natural sense of style, Dash readily embraced the fashion-forward looks. Brittany Murphy, who played Tai, wanted her initial grunge look to be authentic. She requested baggy clothing to create a contrast with her eventual makeover.
May particularly enjoyed creating Tai’s transformation. She views makeovers as opportunities for characters to explore different identities. By the end of the film, Tai’s clothing reflects her newfound sense of self. Her final skatepark outfit, consisting of a striped t-shirt, headband, and braids, symbolizes her authentic personality.
Challenges in the Pre-Digital Age
Creating the costumes for Clueless presented significant challenges, especially considering the limitations of the pre-digital era. May relied on physical resources like the Collezione book to research runway trends. She also worked with a relatively conservative budget, requiring her to be resourceful in sourcing clothing.
The sheer number of costume changes was staggering: 63 for Alicia Silverstone, 40 for Dionne, and numerous changes for Tai and the supporting cast. May and her team had to outfit hundreds of extras, transforming their grunge-inspired outfits into the polished, stylish looks of the film.
May sourced clothing from a variety of places, from thrift stores to upscale malls. The process was painstaking, but the results were worth it. She credits the film’s Director of Photography, Bill Pope, for capturing the costumes in a way that highlighted their detail and impact.
An Unexpected Phenomenon
Clueless exceeded all expectations upon its release. It quickly became the number one movie in America, and its influence on teen fashion was immediate. May recalls seeing girls on the streets embracing the film’s colorful and experimental style.
The movie helped shift away from the grunge aesthetic and ushered in a new era of femininity and playfulness in fashion. May believes that young women were ready for this change.
A Lasting Impact
While many films influence culture temporarily, Clueless has had a lasting impact. Decades later, young women continue to draw inspiration from Cher and Dionne, recreating their iconic outfits and embracing the film’s spirit of fun and self-expression.
May is deeply moved by the film’s enduring legacy. She frequently encounters women who share personal stories about how Clueless inspired them to explore their own style. The film’s ability to touch people’s hearts is a testament to its timeless appeal.